When sailing down wind we eventually may find ourselves having to perform the dreaded gybe.  Depending on conditions and wind strengths, this can be relatively painless or really scary. A violent gybe, which causes the boom to crash from one side of the boat to the other, can cause major damage. In some instances the boom and its attachments can break or bend, the mast can break or bend, and/or the standing rigging can be shock-loaded causing premature fatigue or even failure

If the gybe is intended, there are some techniques to minimize this ‘shock-loading’. One, is to grab the entire main sheet tackle as a whole and help ‘yank’ it over to the new gybe; this is a tricky technique and should be well practiced in light air. When using this method make sure to keep your head, hands and feet clear. The trick is to hold onto the tackle until the sails back-fills, then letting the tackle run smoothly through the hands (while wearing gloves), acting as a brake. The second method is to trim in the main sheet through the gybe and release it (quickly!) on the new tack. The second method is less preferred, as it can cause the boat to round up and can create an even worse situation.

Now let’s talk about what are some pretty good hardware/ rigging solutions:

The boom brake will surely solve all of your gybing woes. It is exactly as it sounds, a device that provides a braking-action by applying friction to a line that is rigged athwartships. There are several manufacturers of boom brakes worth checking out: Walder, Fleming, Dutchman, and Wichard, just to mention a few. The only downside I see with these systems is that the line that has to be rigged athwartships and if you are not careful, can trip you up on your way forward. There can be several ways to rig your boom brake, make sure you ask your local rigger on what set-up suits your boat optimally.

Proper Boom Preventer System, click image to link to Sail Magazine’s article on preventers.

The boom preventer is a more traditional, highly effective method that can, if rigged properly, leave your deck clutter free. The preventer, unlike the boom brake, is to be rigged to the very outboard end of the boom via a pad eye and pendant(see diagram). Many people come up with their own inventions but do not realize that taking shortcuts can lead to boom failure. Here are some tips to rigging your boom preventer properly:

• always use an outboard attachment point
• the attachment point should be a heavy duty pad eye that is through bolted and not just drilled and tapped
• the boom should have a high-strength pennant spanning the length of the boom so that you can access the inboard-end easily when the mainsail is eased all the way out
• the inboard end of the pendant needs to have an eye to accept the shackle of the preventer control line
• the preventer control line should be stowed at the shrouds, go forward to a turning block on the bow and lead aft via lead blocks back to the cockpit, thus keeping the deck clutter free
• the control line should be long enough so that when it needs to be released (in a jam) it can allow the boom gybe across to the other side in a controlled fashion
• the cleating mechanism for the preventer control line should be one that can be easily released in case of emergencies!

Whether choosing a good boom brake system or a properly configured preventer system, take time to ensure that it is rigged correctly and you are well practiced at using it in varying conditions. Both systems should use a stretchy line material like nylon (or at the very least a stretchy polyester) to minimize shock loading. The boom brake offers you an effective ‘set it and forget it’ method that won’t require you to leave the safety of your cockpit. It can however clutter amidships and create a potentially hazardous situation if you do ever need to go forward. The boom preventer can be controlled from the cockpit as well, however it will require you to go forward to the shrouds to rig the system so that it can be used.

Remember you can always leave a comment if you a have a question or a thought. Thanks for the read and we’ll talk to you again tomorrow…

 Tent O-13

This is an often asked question which seems to have many different answers. In the rigging world we have tried various sealants and over time and have come to know two primary products as our choice of sealant, 3M’s UV4000 and Boat Life Life Calk.

Boat Life’s Life Calk provides a long lasting seal that stays flexible through out its lifespan. We find this product exceptional when it comes to bedding chain plates and stanchion bases, but is suitable for many other applications. Beware that this is a poly-sulfide and although it bonds well to most surfaces, including wood, aluminum and fiberglass, it can cause damage to plastics over time.

3M’s UV4000 is our product of choice for bedding almost everything else including deck/mast hardware and fasteners. This product provides an excellent adhesive seal that is great for a marine environment and is suitable as a general sealant in almost every application.

To clean these products, we first use a putty knife (or our rigging knife) to remove a majority of the mess. Next we will use paper towels and 3M’s General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner to break down any excess goop. Then finally we will use a clean paper towel and some acetone or mineral spirits to remove any residual sealant, cloudiness or hazing. This last step will give it that professional, clean look. With bare wood surfaces or on non-skid DO NOT wait until these sealants have cured as this will surely result in a less desirable look and is more difficult to clean up.

As much as I hate to say it, we do on occasion need to use marine silicone sealant. The reason that, “I hate to say it”, is because silicone has to be the most overly and inappropriately used product in the hands of boat owners today. Silicone is only to be used as a final touch before stepping a mast for any open electrical holes, cotter pin legs, or ring dings. We will also use use a small amount of silicone and 3M electrical tape to seal the upper ring of a mast boot (as pictured above). If you absolutely need to use a silicone sealant make sure that it is marine grade, as household silicone will rot and mildew.

Thanks for the read, feel free to leave us a comment or question below!

Despite the Americas Cup action being over, the Extreme 40′s, the fleet that started all of this ‘huff-luff’, is still at it. These cats may not have fixed wings or hydrofoils for that matter, but there is always a consistently good turnout and some high speed sailing to be had.

Check out some highlights of the Extreme Sailing Series most recent stop at the Cardiff Bay off of the coast of Wales, UK.

SailingNewsTV’s YouTube feed has put together a tasteful highlights segment of the race.

Check out their vid……..

Also give ‘em a like on Facebook and follow all of their latest scuttlebutt on Twitter

Staysail Boom

Jib boom or no jib boom… that is the question. First we need to figure out why it’s there to begin with. The jib boom really only has its advantages when sailing “off the wind”. It allows the sail to maintain a fast sail shape that is well projected, as the sheet is eased. In the case of the staysail, it is a relatively small sail compared to the rest of the boat’s sail plan. Therefore having optimum sail shape when “off the wind” has small impact on the boat’s overall performance. The downside to the jib boom is that it does make the foredeck a cluttered and very unsafe place to be, even without the sail being deployed. The slight advantage gained in performance is also lost after having to turn the bow so far down wind that the mainsail shadows the small staysail or jib, rendering it virtually useless.

Jib Boom

The jib boom does have its place however and that is in the case of a dedicated day sailor with no headsail options, where you are pretty much guaranteed to be in the cockpit and off of the bow, like on the Alerion Express for example (pictured right).

Back to the cutter scenario, the staysail would only be unfurled (or set) in beam reach situations (or somewhere there-about), in conjunction with the other head sails, to gain boat speed in moderate conditions. Another configuration would be to use the staysail to control the boat in heavy weather conditions where a small headsail is required to work upwind. Only the first scenario would benefit from the jib boom in that it may slightly optimize sail performance in the beam reach, but this is nothing that a Barber Hauler can’t resolve . Beyond that, as the boat begins to turn downwind, from the beam reach to a broad reach, the staysail (if being used) is furled in (or doused) and the asymmetrical cruising spinnaker is hoisted; either by way of top down furler, snuffer, or a more traditional deployment method.

Asymmetric Spinnaker for Cruisers

These modern day cruising spinnakers allow the cruiser to move the boat downwind with exceptional performance, minimal rigging, and minimal crew work. They also allow the boat to be driven downwind on a broad spectrum of sail points, from just above ‘dead down’ to just below the ‘close reach’, depending on how the sail is cut. Now the staysail could again be deployed in conjunction with the spinnaker to increase the boats performance (see pic. below) on or about the beam reach.

Please see your local rigger about setting up your boat properly. To read about how to cruise dead down click here, also check out our blog on cruising spinnaker options!

Cruising Gennaker W/ Sta-Sail ‘Beam Reaching’

Have question? Just leave us a comment and we will reply!

Looks like the MOD 70′s experienced yet another capsize just a couple of weeks ago while practicing for the Transat Jacques Vabre. It’s pretty serious when these things go over as Team Spindrift can vouch for with their spill back in June in Dùn Laoghaire, Ireland.

Virbac Paprec was the sponsor on the hull of this MOD 70 Trimaran and I think world class skipper Jean Pierre Dick was the man falling 50 some feet into the cold ocean waters (follow the red arrow). 

I wonder how they right these things…….

Can’t afford a Boom Furler? Looking for an easier way to hoist, douse, and stow your main or mizzen sails? Well there are two products that you may want to look at. They are called a Tides Marine Strong Track and our very own T.R.C. Lazy Jacks (pictured left).

I do realize that many people cringe at the words lazy jacks and how they don’t see to work, but trust me when I say this is due to them being installed the wrong way and/or the product itself just lacking versatility and functionality. This is one of those classic examples where simpler is better (er). It just so happens that our very own custom lazy jack systems, made in house, offer a perfect solution. This design was originally created by Master Rigger (50+ years experience) Patrick Jinks formerly of Chesapeake Rigging, Annapolis Spars Ltd., and it has carried on its a tradition as the best L.J. kit on the market here at The Rigging Company. These systems are available in 4, 3, and 2 leg configurations. The design is simple, clean, effective and all the while unobtrusive. I found this quite accurate description and drawing of it at this cruisers forum. As the sailnet.com member states, there is absolutely no hardware to chafe the sail, it is designed to be stowed forward so that it is not in the way while sailing, and the mainsail cover can be put on without a canvas maker’s customization. The best part is they are priced at a much lower price point than that of the major brand competitors- around $299 – $499, not installed. So before you think about buying one of those other kits, do yourself a favor and stop by our shop and ask one our experienced staff to at least take a look at our kits before taking the big plunge!

All of this sail catching/ cradling technology makes little sense if your mainsail doesn’t fall freely and you have to fight just to pull the ‘thing’ down! Tides Marine provides a solution for this with their (again simple but efficient) Strong Track System. This is a hard black plastic tracks that I am sure you have seen on the aft edge of someone’s mast before. The Tides Marine strong tracks are very popular and have been around for a long time. They are easy to install,  very functional, and are fairly priced at $28.25/ft (ask about our special online discounts). They come with stainless slides and special batten slides, which have exceptionally low friction inside the hard plastic track. These slides are also easily installed onto your current sail. You can read more about them here.

In conclusion, the beauty of these systems, as well as any of the systems that we recommend, are their simplistic attributes thus eliminating the need for any over-complicated servicing or maintenance. Other systems can be way more complicated to install, can be quite pricey to purchase, and you can count on them requiring some sort of maintenance. Having said that although these items are relatively easy to install; I would still recommend seeking the help of a professional rigger as there are rivets to ‘pop’, holes to drill and tap, and perhaps even cutouts that need to be made. 

~Have a question? Leave us a comment and we will reply. Thanks for the read and talk to you next time…..

YIKES!

 If it inspired you to consider your chainplates then read here for more information on chainplate service and inspection.

~T.R.C.

So are you sick of your jib flogging around when you turn the boat down wind? Do you dread heading down wind because you know the boat’s performance will drastically suffer?

Gennaker On Furler

Somehow the thought of the spinnaker is always nice, but when it really comes down to it, MAN that’s a lot of work! Not to mention things can really get pretty hairy, pretty quickly, especially if you are short handed. So instead, if it is windy enough,  you could just furl the head sail in and sail main only, or just head-up and sail the longer tacks in exchange for boat speed.

RIGHT?

Well, have a look at these options for asymmetrical spinnakers that are making their way into the cruising world. For most conditions moderate to light, a cruising asymmetrical spinnaker, flown from a fixed, retractable or removable sprit can make a tremendous difference on the boat’s overall performance. These sails can handle many points of sail from below the beam reach to just above dead down. You say this isn’t for cruisers, but I beg to differ. Just because you cruise a sailboat doesn’t mean you don’t want to get there in the fastest way possible. You are sailing after all.

Code Zero

Snuffers have traditionally been the choice of most in hoisting, setting, and dowsing the spinnaker with more ease. These snuffers however, can be a clunky, heavy, and difficult to manage at inopportune times. Besides, who really wants that giant bucket and all of that fabric aloft resting on the head of their spinnaker? Instead, let’s discuss some other options and those are code zero (or gennaker) furlers as well as the newly discovered top-down furlers. The main difference between the two is that with the top-down furler there is a torsional rope in between the head-swivel and the tack-drum and that the tack can independently swivel. This allows the sail to furl from the top down to collapse the luff quickly and to de-power the sail. This also allows for a easier, safer, and neater furl.

Asymmetrical Spinnaker On Top-Down Furler

A code zero (or gennaker) furler will also have a tack-drum and a head-swivel. Instead it has an integrated(or sewn-in) torsional rope that can make for a more rigid luff. The furling action is also more difficult as the whole sail is being furled at once. These types of furlers are also very halyard sensitive in regards to sail and furling performance. Here is where the top down furler really excells. It is less halyard sensitive, and when the sail is completely unfurled it has a nice full and loose luff, offering optimum downwind performance just like that of a true gennaker or assymetrical spinnaker.

Both code zero and top-down furlers typically utilize continuous furling lines, as soft luffed sails will require more or less furling as the wind conditions change. Both designs will also require the drum to be extended out in front of the foremost stay or furler, whether by way of sprit, removable sprit or possibly, depending on design, the anchor roller. So as it turns out downwind performance optimization is not just for heavily crewed race boats anymore. Ask your local rigger about top-down furlers and what options might be right for you!

Want some more downwind options? For sailing ‘dead down’ or there about, from light to moderately heavy conditions you may want check this out.

What is a deck tie down? A deck tie down keeps the deck from being pulled up on keel stepped masts, where the mast does not sit on the deck. When the halyards are led aft via turning blocks attached to either the mast collar or the deck surrounding it, the deck will try and pull up as the line becomes loaded. The deck can also be pushed up by the compression of the hull, typically, caused by rigging tension.

Deck tie downs come in various configurations. They can be found as a long bolt that goes through the mast and mast collar at the deck partners. This is usually the method used by Island Packet (although this is not a preferred method because there is no way to tension the “Tie-down” and is merely dependent on how perfect the hole is drilled). Another widely used variation is a solid stainless steel or bronze rod that goes all the way through the boat from the deck where it is capped off and tensioned with a nut. This rod then goes down and gets threaded into the step, either along the forward or aft edge of the mast. Metal eyes or tangs can also be fastened to the underside of the deck or deck ring. This type of Tie-down can then be attached to the mast below decks, via another tang at the mast and then tensioned with a turnbuckle.

In general, when the mast is not sitting on the deck to keep it tied down, it is a good idea to come up with some sort of deck tie down system. This not only ensures stiffness, which is very important in a sailboat (yes, even for cruising designs) but more importantly, could also keep your boat’s deck from being badly damaged. If you are in doubt as to whether or not your boat is equipped with a deck tie down system, contact your local rigger to have a look.

Related Articles: Mast Steps and Deck Collars

Just had to share this find. Not sailing related but fun to watch…….

Today’s spars are usually made of composite carbon fiber or aluminum extrusions. Both of these mast materials, just like old wooden masts, require a finish. Whereas wooden masts were typically coated with a clear varnish, they could also be found painted. These more traditional finishes were typically brush applied or rolled and tipped. Spray finishes became more popular towards the end of the wooden spar era. The paints and varnishes of old were also oil-based instead of being polyester-based, like many of the high end finishes found today in the marine or aeronautical industries.

  Today, Carbon fiber spars use either a clear urethane or one with a pigment, typically black or white, and are applied via spray-gun. Aluminum masts are also typically finished using the same pigmented polyester-based polyurethane and applied through spray application. Aluminum however, always requires an epoxy-based primer before applying the top-coat to the aluminum spar. The epoxy primer provides a superior moisture barrier as-well-as, a surface to improve the adherence of the urethane, which is crucial for UV resistance. Although it can’t hurt, a carbon spar does not require an epoxy primer as the epoxy used to laminate the carbon fibers (along with a good etching) ensures quality adhesion by default. Using a clear urethane on a carbon fiber or wooden spar gives the mast a really unique and glossy look that magnifies the patterns within the laminate or the grain. However, this type of finish is more tedious to execute, requires more maintenance and has a shorter life span than its pigmented counterpart.

Aluminum masts can also be found in a black or clear-anodized finish, which is preferred due to its durability, but may not always be available. Aluminum spars are also most often painted, typically in either black, or some shade of white/cream. Although rare, aluminum spars can be powder-coated, which has also proven to be a very durable finish.

So why does one need to have a finish on these various types of spar materials? Wood will deteriorate from moisture and sunlight. Carbon fiber by itself, does extremely well in a high U.V. environment. However, the epoxy used to laminate the fibers is very sensitive to sunlight and will break down. Unfinished aluminum can be highly corrosive. Carbons, salts,  and electrolytic activity in combination with dissimilar metals are some of the factors that can help accelerate this corrosion process.

Some of the preparation methods to ensure a finish is properly applied are as follows:

• All types of spars (PRE-PAINT-PREP) should have the hardware removed, cleaned, inspected, and replaced if necessary (don’t cheat yourself in leaving on any hardware). Note: remember that the purpose of a refinish is to refurbish and preserve the spar material and the associated hardware.
• Carbon-fiber spars (PAINT-PREP)  will simply require a good etching with a medium-fine grit paper, such as a 220 or 320. Follow that with a good rinse (with a de-greasing soap) along with a chemical wipe just before painting.
• Wooden spars (PAINT-PREP)should also be finish-sanded to a medium-fine grit, such as a 220. You can then use wood bleach or oxalic acid to brighten and clean the wood if applying a clear finish. Be sure to rinse the this acid with vinegar to neutralize it and remove any residue that may conflict with the finish adhering properly. A tack cloth should be used just prior to applying the finish to remove any remaining unwanted dust and/or particles.
• Wooden and carbon-fiber spars (CLEAR COATS), when applying a clear finish to either, you should take extra care to remove all of the old finish, otherwise this could lead to a “spotty” finish.
• Aluminum spars (PAINT-PREP)should be sanded to a rougher, medium grit of 120 to give the metal a well-etched surface for the primer to ‘bite’ into. Any highly corroded areas should be spot treated via media blasting. The metal should then be washed with an acid solution to combat the basic nature of the corrosive process. This process will also remove any grease, oil and dirt from the surface, for the primer and the topcoat to adhere properly. A good chemical wipe or tack cloth is also a good idea right before applying the primer.

After the spars have been painted properly, you should take extra care to ensure that all of the hardware gets installed using new fasteners and sealant. This step will provide a seal and a barrier between the hardware and the spars.

Maintaining these finishes will ensure longevity and is achieved by re-coating the spars within the time period recommended, as per the paint manufacturer’s requirements. When re-coating you should also remove, re-bed and refasten the hardware associated with the spar. If the existing base coat is intact and meets the manufacturers adhesion requirements, these finishes can typically be dulled with a medium-fine grit like 320 and red Scotch-Brite. Then follow the aforementioned rinsing methods (for Carbon Fiber) and apply another series of coats, as needed.

In conclusion, typically (at least in the middle-Atlantic type regions), one can expect pigmented polyurethane finishes to last 7-10 years or longer; non-pigmented polyurethanes may last up to 5 – 7 years.  In most cases, these finishes could be re-coated within those time frames. Granted, these are generalizations and are dependent upon the product used, the geographical location and use, as well as the method in which they were applied. As always, please seek the help of your local rigger or marine painter for specific instructions on dealing with your spars particularly.

…..at the Panerai Yachts Challenge, Antigua.

The event took place in April of this year. Looks like they had great conditions with plenty of breeze, although it could have been sunier.

Despite this event not showcasing the latest and greatest, high speed technology in sailing, this is still one of my favorite events in the sport to behold. Here one can see everything from old classic working boats to the classic multi-million dollar sailing yachts of yesteryear.

Brought to you by Officine Panerai’s YouTube feed.

Seasons greetings to all the world from Annapolis, Maryland, USA!

Enjoy the holiday weekend and the beginning of the new holiday season.

This may seem a little long winded, but going aloft on a sailboat mast is serious business and should not be taken lightly. Serious injury or death can occur, so please take every precaution. I would like to take a moment to talk about some of the methods that we use to ensure our safety when we go aloft.

Typically, we have to go aloft on boats that we have never seen before. Because of this we have to be very cautious about this process. The first consideration is, that the boat must be in the water, at T.R.C. our company policy is that the boat must be supported in its natural environment (water) to allow for the righting moment of the boat to be effective. We will never go aloft on the hard. The second consideration is, if the boat is too tender, i.e. boats around 27′ or less depending on displacement, you may be better off taking the mast down instead of attempting to go aloft. You should be especially leery about fractionally rigged boats where you need to access the very top of the mast (i.e. J-22), due to the top of the mast lacking support. Also wooden spars can present an inherent safety issue and that is rot, more specifically non-visible rot. When in doubt about an on-the-mast winch like in the case of the wooden mast, it is always recommended to lead the halyard aft to a through-bolted primary jib winch, always ensuring a fair lead.

Once we have determined that the boat itself qualifies to go aloft, we will proceed to inspect the rigging at the deck to ensure all pins are in-place and there is nothing suspicious going on. Ultimately you need to make sure that your mast will not fall over while you are aloft.

Next, we will choose an available halyard that offers the safest possible method to go up the mast. NEVER go aloft on an external halyard that utilizes a hanging block, always choose a halyard that passes through (or into) the mast. Preferably, the halyard should run through a rope clutch before the winch. We will also give the winch a good spin and ensure that the trademark ‘clicking’ sound is present and well pronounced. This lets us know that the pawls (which keep the winch from spinning the other way) inside winch are springing back nicely. We also lift up on the winch drum to ensure that it is securely locked down and will not lift-off during the belaying process. If there is any doubt as to safety of the winch, it is highly recommended to either service the winch or, to find a more suitable winch on the boat (even if it means using a different halyard). Also, we never go aloft on a wire halyard or a wire winch. Wire or Reel winches are sketchy in that they utilize a metal band (called a Brake) which applies friction to the drum and acts as a brake to keep the drum from spinning the other way. These metal bands have been known to break and down you go!

Since most boats have vertically furling sails of some sort, like in-mast, behind the mast or foresail furlers, the halyard will be occupied most of the year as the working end is attached to the sail at the top of the mast. Sometimes another spare halyard (i.e. boom topping lift or spare jib) is the only option. If nothing else is available it may be necessary to douse one of the furled sails in order to have access to a viable halyard. Unless the halyard looks very new, we will always use a dedicated climbing line. We do this by using the existing halyard to ‘pull-in’ our dedicated climbing line. See your local rigger about methods of attaching the new line to the old one, as there are a number of ways to achieve this.  If we decide to use the existing line, we will run the line to check for any chafe/weak points. We do this by attaching the bitter end to the working end and running the line to the top of the mast and back down to inspect the full length of the line.

Now that the we have ticked all of the safety check points and a safe halyard is in place we will connect our Bosun’s chair via a bowline with a half hitch in the tail to keep the knot from spilling. Other climbing knots are also acceptable, just be sure that you are confident in your knot tying skills. RIGGERS RULE: “Always, always tie a knot and never, ever use a splice of any kind, even if you spliced the line yourself.” The benefit of the knot over the splice is that you can visually ensure that it has been made correctly.

Choosing the right Bosun’s chair or harness is also critical to ensuring safety when going aloft. Make sure you abide by the manufacturer of your choice’s weight and usage guidelines. If you are a large person like myself (6’5″ 285 lbs.), that doesn’t meet the requirements of any manufacturer (at least not to my knowledge), a custom chair or harness may need to be made. It may also be an option to modify an existing design to increase the weight restrictions. Please seek the council of your local rigger before tackling this project by yourself. Whichever chair or harness that you use make sure that it is rigged with a Dyneema safety tether and heavy duty snap hook (like pictured below) or climbers caribener.

Here are some DO’s and DONT’s to highlight:

• DON’T use a halyard that is external and utilizes a free hanging block
• DON’T go aloft on a boat that is on land
• DON’T use a worn, old, or even remotely suspicious halyard
• DON’T use a snap or quick release shackle as an attachment
• DON’T use a line that has a splice of any kind in between you and the winch
• DON’T use a wire halyard or a reel winch
• DON’T use a winch that isn’t securely fastened via drilled and tapped machine screws, through bolts, or tight rivets
• DO tie a safe and secure knot
• DO make sure that the winch you are using is safe and functional
• DO make sure that the halyard you have chosen is safe and lead properly
• DO choose a halyard that runs to a rope clutch before the winch, if that is available
• DO make sure that your chair or harness is equipped with a heavy duty, chafe resistant safety tether or snap hook
• DO make sure that you are using an adequately rated chair or harness
• DO use a new halyard (that has been thoroughly inspected) or a dedicated climbing line
• DO make sure that you use the your safety tether by clipping it back to itself whenever you come to a stopping point and as you descend

The Climbing Technique: When we go aloft we use a two man ‘heave-ho’ (or ready-go) method. One man in the chair and one man belaying at the winch. The winch should have no more or less than 2-3 wraps on it and the rope clutch (if present) should be clutched down so as to not let the line slip the other way. This technique takes more coordination than strength. When done correctly this method is the easiest and most effective way to get to the top. The man in the chair finds a good foot hold and hand hold and then says “ready”, pauses, and says “GO!”, with a short pause and then pulls. The short pause after the “GO” is crucial and allows for reaction time by the person belaying on the winch to pull hard at the EXACT same time the person in the chair pulls hard.  The idea is to move the knot up with every “GO”. This method will take practice between the two individuals. Timing is everything!

Once you reach your desired height, engage your safety tether by clipping it back to itself. The person belaying you on the winch should put full wraps on the drum, all the while maintaining tension on the line. Do not allow the line to go slack at any time. Then go all the way ’round and through the self-tailer (if present) and cleat the bitter end to a secondary cleat or belay the winch.

The Winch Handle (or Electric Winch) Technique: This method is the most common and does not require much effort on behalf of the person in the chair, but a lot of effort on behalf of the person (or e-motor) doing the winching. This method is also the slowest, yet most dangerous. The person on the winch needs to stay focused and pay attention. Don’t get bored by the monotony of it all. Here, the winch needs to be loaded full of wraps before going to the self tailing portion of the winch (as it should always be or one could damage the self tailer). Again, the rope clutch, if present, should be in the clutched-down position. If the winch is not equipped with a self-tailer then you will need to employ the services of a third person to tail the line while winching, no exceptions. If using an electric winch it is of utmost importance to STOP before sucking the halyard, chair and the person going aloft into the mast head, into the lazy jacks, runners or any other part of the mast. The person operating the electric winch needs to use extreme caution and the person in the chair needs to use his/her outside voice to communicate loudly!

Once you reach your desired height, engage your safety tether by clipping it back to itself and have the person belaying you on the winch go all the way ’round the self tailer and cleat the bitter end to a secondary cleat or belay the winch.

The Solo Technique: Going aloft alone adds yet another dimension of danger. There are several products out there to help you achieve this in a safe manner, the ATN Self Climber and the Petzl Ascender, just to name a few, are rope grabbing mechanisms that assist you in climbing a static line. There are also a few other styles of mechanical advantage systems whose names elude me at the moment. We (at T.R.C.) use what is called a self hoist, which is essentially a block and tackle that lives in a crate and uses a thick dedicated control line to give it a nice hand. Of course this line needs to be long enough to reach the top of the mast, multiplied times the amount of purchase. We utilize a 4:1 purchase (3:1 is acceptable) which is comprised of a double block (as the turning block, attached to the halyard, pictured top right) and a ratcheting Becket block (as the purchase block, attached to the Bosun’s chair/ harness, pictured left). The ratchet block allows the user assistance one way (up) and provides friction in the other direction (down). The use of gloves is recommended.

With any of these systems, be sure to follow the manufacturers guidelines to secure yourself aloft. Additionally, engage your safety tether when you reach a stopping point by clipping it back to itself. When using the block and tackle (self hoist) method, simply tie a clove hitch over the tackle (as pictured below). You can add another half hitch for added safety.

There are also other options like soft ladders, mast walkers, mast climbing steps, etc…..I discourage people from using these for several reasons. The mounted types involve drilling, screwing, tapping, or riveting dissimilar metals into/onto your mast every 3′ or so along its entire length. They also have a tendency to snag things, trap halyards or rattle (and that’s a lot of things rattling). Soft ladders (like the one pictured below) that are hoisted into the air via halyard, hurt your feet incredibly. Most importantly all of these provide a false sense of security and you should never solely rely on them to go aloft. Make sure that even if your boat is equipped with any of these items that you still use a chair and follow the aforementioned safety guidelines.

THE DESCENT: This is one of the most important aspects of going aloft. If someone is belaying you it is of utmost importance that they maintain tension on the bitter end at ALL times. If a clutch is being used, make sure it is the last thing to become un-cleated. The person belaying the winch should remove all but three or four wraps form the winch, all the while remembering to maintain tension on the bitter end (this is VERY IMPORTANT). Once the person belaying the winch has everything un-cleated and the weight of the line is in both of their hands, they should yell loudly “OKAY!” and wait for the person aloft to reply signaling that they are all clear to descend. The line should pull out of the hand of the person who is belaying.

IMPORTANT! If the you have to push the line off of the winch, STOP! Close the clutch (if present) and remove another wrap from the winch. Always maintain tension on the bitter end of the line. 

DO NOT let the line run through your hand. Instead lower the Bosun hand over hand, slowly and smoothly. If you encounter a twist in the line, pause and patiently work it out, all the while maintaining tension on the line. NEVER take your eyes off of the winch and listen clearly for any signals from aloft. If utilizing one of the solo aloft devices follow that manufacturer’s guidelines for descent. If using a self hoist, lower yourself hand over hand slowly. Don’t hesitate to take a few breaks on the way down to make sure you aren’t becoming fatigued. Take time to become comfortable with the sensation.

Self Hoists Make You Sweat! Click the Image to Learn More about the Author.

Sometimes it nice just to see what the world’s financially elite are up to. Apparently being an architect pays well……..

Behold the beautiful 44.7m (147ft) lift keel sloop “Lady B”. Built and launched by Vitters Shipyard who design some pretty incredible boats.

“Lady B” is a sleek performance yacht with the ever sought after low slung lines of classic yachts, and offers comfortable, yet fast sailing. The biggest feat designers had to overcome was the lifting keel concept that had never been attempted before on yachts of this size/ type. This allowed the boat to access even the most remote of destinations around Europe and across the globe. The boat was designed by Dubois Naval Architects and the stunning interior is credited to Rhoades Young.

Oh to dream……

Your sailboat rigging should be thoroughly checked once a season. The best way to do this is by pulling the mast or masts out of the boat and running down a check list. One can also spot most major problems from a bosun’s chair, and if done regularly, is generally more cost effective. It is strongly recommended that you have the spars pulled at least once every 5 years depending on the conditions that your boat and its rigging have been subjected to.

To help you do your own rigging check, here are some general guidelines for the average sloop rigged boat. For any specific questions or concerns, please don’t hesitate to call.                                                                                                                                                

A.    DECK LEVEL AND BELOW DECKS

1. Check the boom gooseneck for worn pins, cracked welds, etc.…

2. Check the boom for bends or dents.

3. Check all block attachment points on the boom for fatigue or wear, i.e. vang bails, sheet bails.

4. Check all blocks and shackle attachment points for bent pins, distorted shackles, missing or loose ring pins, etc.…

5. To check halyards, attach a spare line to the shackle end and pull up on the halyard slowly. Check the line and check the shackle for proper operation.

6. Check all shroud, stay, and lifeline swages for cracks.

7. Check lifelines where they go through stanchion post for excessive wear.

8. Make sure the mast sits flush on the mast step.

9. If your mast is keel stepped, make sure the mast is securely chocked where it goes through the deck.

10. Check the chain plate attachment points below deck for wear or rot or any evidence of water damage.

11. Make sure the chain plates or chain plate cover plates are water tight where they go through the deck.  

12. Check turnbuckles for bends in the body or stud, cracks, excessive rust, as well as ensure all turnbuckles are secured properly. Either by way of cotter pin, locking nut or ring pin.                   

B.   THE MASTHEAD

1. Check all welds for cracks.

2. Check any masthead gear for secure attachment.

3. Check all pins are properly secured, either by way of cotter pin or ring pin.

4. Make sure the sheaves turn freely and the pins that hold them in are secure.

5. Check for sharp edges where halyards exit. 

6. Make sure all fasteners, rivets, screws  are tight.

7. Check head and backstay swages for cracks.

8. If you have an external mainsail track, as you descend, check the fasteners.

C.  SHROUDS

 1. Check swages for cracks.

 2. Check the shroud tangs for wear.

 3. Check clevis pins for wear.

4. Check cotter pins.

 5. Make sure the tang bolt (if present) is tight and locked in a secure manner.

D.   SPREADERS

 1. If spreaders or brackets are welded, look for stress cracks.

 2. Make sure spreader bases are secure.

 3. Make sure the spreader is well fastened to the base.

4. Tape or silicone over any sharp bolts or cotter pins in this area. 

5. Check spreader tips for corrosion (remove any tape or boots) and ensure spreader tips are secured to upper shrouds by seizing or clamps.

For rod rigging service and inspection intervals, read more here.

A beautiful yacht with classic lines and modern technology, “PASHA”. Enough said…..

Integral backstay adjusters can play a big role in how a boat sails. Being able to adjust the backstay tension from the pump of a handle can be useful on cruisers just as much as racers. We all need to make general changes to the boats trim depending on wind and wave conditions in order to keep control of the boat.

Please note: in the case of the offshore cruiser or racer, one should have a fail-safe device rigged by a professional for any hydraulic backstay tensioning device.

HOLMATRO

Holmatro, makers of the Jaws of Life, are trying to set some new standards when it comes to integral adjuster technology. Holmatro’s HIA line-up come in two different colors, classic black or a silver metallic. One of the design flaws that I’ve notice on earlier model adjusters is that you have to crawl on the deck to try and read the gauge; causing most of us leisure sailors (myself included) to not even look at the darned ‘thing’. This is bad practice, considering the power of hydraulics. The feature that really sets Holmatro apart from the rest, is the automatic two-speed function of the ram. The automatic two-speed function allows you to achieve adequate backstay tension with fewer pumps of the lever than some of the older/ other manufacturers.  Once the hydraulic cylinder detects a specified amount of pressure, the unit kicks into “second gear” and fine-tuning is achievable with some additional pumps of the lever. Although fairly new, this unit comes at a price of about $800 more than the competitors. In my opinion, just to have the gauge in a more visible location is well worth the price alone. For more details click here.

NAVTEC

For those of you that are a bit more price conscious and like to go with what works, the Navtec unit has an incredible reputation. Navtec’s integral units seem to be the most popular on wide array of boat designs. The units offer similar design to those of Holmatro (I am pretty sure that Holmatro’s designers were copying Navtec but that is just my opinion). For a reliable/ quality adjuster for a reasonable price look no further! Some models have the gauge on top some are down at the deck. You’ll have to look for yourself and see what their latest design is, as they are always changing. Although cylinders that are driven by panels, usually in the cockpit,  come in black or silver, Navtec’s integral units come in black only, for now.

HARKEN

The newest of them all is Harken’s new hydraulic lineup. This is such a new product there is no real r&d which I can see as a concern. However, as far as the integral unit is concerned Harken is the most innovative, boasting a gauge that is mounted on top and can also adjust to 4 different positions allowing it to be seen from almost any angle, THANK YOU HARKEN! Instead of the two speed function which Holmatro adds as a luxury, Harken has created a pump that is 1:1 actuating. Meaning that oil is delivered as the handle goes in and out, instead of the competitors’ design which only delivers oil when the handle is being pulled away from the cylinder. This may also be a work around for One Design rules (all of you J105 racers out there!), disallowing two speed pumps………at least until they catch on ;-0)

SAILTEC

Lastly, we have Sailtec‘s line of integral adjusters. Sailtec is also a reputable company on a  smaller scale. This company (like Navtec) has also been around for many years, proving quality and dependability. What I like about Sailtec is that they have left their design relatively unchanged over the years which is a good thing when it comes to servicing parts availability. Price wise, Navtec and Sailtec integral adjusters are comparable.

Service intervals:  all of these units need to be serviced at some point. The service intervals, like anything else, will mostly be determined by geographical location as well as wear. Navtec units are the most affordable to service followed by Sailtec which require slightly more parts and time. Holmatro and Harken’s are still too new to really know anything about service intervals and cost, so we’ll just have to hold out and see.

All in all, all of these products truly do an outstanding job at what they are supposed to do, tension a stay hydraulically. Not to mention these are all reputable companies that will stand behind their product 100% (within reason). That being said the decision will come down to personal preference, look, functionality, and service life. As well as of course, purchase price.

Click the links to the various manufacturers and take a look for yourself. If you need help deciding you can always give us a shout, we’d love to hear from you.

As always thanks for the read and if you have a question for us, leave us a comment down below……….